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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.